Thursday, 25 May 2017

My first coat - softshell Zipfeljacke Bella

Our youngest girl needed a new coat. Although we have two girls and both girls are born in the same month, you might expect that for our second daughter we don't need much new clothes. That is not always the case, sometimes I miss certain items. This was the case for the coat. I wanted to make a softshell coat which are very useful in our Dutch summers. It is either very hot and we don't wear a coat, or it is cold and raining, enter the softshell coat.
I came across the softshell coat that HipenHeppie made. I loved her version. She used a free pattern, the Zipfeljacke Bella from Rabaukennaht. I love the colour blocking of the coat and the hood, it looks so cute with the drawstings attached to it. 
The original pattern is with buttons instead of a zipper, but as HipenHeppie explains, it can be changed quite easily. Of course that was not the only change that I wanted to make I also wanted to add a collar. I wanted a coat with both a collar and a hood.
So when I traced the pattern I changed a couple of things:
I added 1,5 cm to the sides on the front where the zipper comes (for the zipper)
* I added 2 cm to the bottom of the pattern pieces as I did not wanted a reversible coat. I folded the bottom first 1 cm and then again 1 cm before I sewed the bottom.
* I did not add seam allowance to the outside of the hood as I sewed a bias band to the hood
* I added a collar piece by cutting a rectangular piece a bit shorter than the inside of the hood and 10 cm high, I measured this after I had sewed the hood on
* Additionally, do not forget to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces as seam allowance is not included
I followed the pattern until after the hood was added. Then I cut the pattern piece for the collar and sewed the collar with the right side on the inside of the hood. Then I sewed the zipper to the coat and the collar. After the zipper I sewed the bias band (keperband) to the zipper. After that was finished I folded the collar, wrong sides together, and folded the collar over the seam from the hood.
I also changed the way the sleeves were sewed. I wanted to show the inside of the nice soft softshell fabric therefore I decided to just fold the bottom of the sleeves twice and then sewed a few stitches so that it would stay put.
I bought the green softshell fabric already three years ago in Groningen at Jan Sikkes Stoffen en Gordijnen. Again it took me 3,5 years to use the fabric for a coat. The softshell fabric with the birds is from Hoofs, one of my local fabric stores. I thought it would perfectly fit with the green fabric. I can not sew a garment without colour blocking, so I always need at least two different fabrics. I have enough fabric of both left to sew another softshell coat (at least I hope so).
Fabric: Green softshell from Jan Sikkes in Groningen, the softshell fabric with the birds comes from Hoofs in Den Bosch.
Pattern: a free pattern the Zipfeljacke Bella from Rabaukennaht (in German, but with a great photo tutorial)


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