I came across the softshell coat that HipenHeppie made. I loved her version. She used a free pattern, the Zipfeljacke Bella from Rabaukennaht. I love the colour blocking of the coat and the hood, it looks so cute with the drawstings attached to it.
The original pattern is with buttons instead of a zipper, but as HipenHeppie explains, it can be changed quite easily. Of course that was not the only change that I wanted to make I also wanted to add a collar. I wanted a coat with both a collar and a hood.
So when I traced the pattern I changed a couple of things:
* I added 1,5 cm to the sides on the front where the zipper comes (for the zipper)
* I added 2 cm to the bottom of the pattern pieces as I did not wanted a reversible coat. I folded the bottom first 1 cm and then again 1 cm before I sewed the bottom.
* I did not add seam allowance to the outside of the hood as I sewed a bias band to the hood
* I added a collar piece by cutting a rectangular piece a bit shorter than the inside of the hood and 10 cm high, I measured this after I had sewed the hood on
* Additionally, do not forget to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces as seam allowance is not included
I followed the pattern until after the hood was added. Then I cut the pattern piece for the collar and sewed the collar with the right side on the inside of the hood. Then I sewed the zipper to the coat and the collar. After the zipper I sewed the bias band (keperband) to the zipper. After that was finished I folded the collar, wrong sides together, and folded the collar over the seam from the hood.I also changed the way the sleeves were sewed. I wanted to show the inside of the nice soft softshell fabric therefore I decided to just fold the bottom of the sleeves twice and then sewed a few stitches so that it would stay put.
I bought the green softshell fabric already three years ago in Groningen at Jan Sikkes Stoffen en Gordijnen. Again it took me 3,5 years to use the fabric for a coat. The softshell fabric with the birds is from Hoofs, one of my local fabric stores. I thought it would perfectly fit with the green fabric. I can not sew a garment without colour blocking, so I always need at least two different fabrics. I have enough fabric of both left to sew another softshell coat (at least I hope so).
Fabric: Green softshell from Jan Sikkes in Groningen, the softshell fabric with the birds comes from Hoofs in Den Bosch.
Pattern: a free pattern the Zipfeljacke Bella from Rabaukennaht (in German, but with a great photo tutorial)