Thursday, 25 May 2017

My first coat - softshell Zipfeljacke Bella

Our youngest girl needed a new coat. Although we have two girls and both girls are born in the same month, you might expect that for our second daughter we don't need much new clothes. That is not always the case, sometimes I miss certain items. This was the case for the coat. I wanted to make a softshell coat which are very useful in our Dutch summers. It is either very hot and we don't wear a coat, or it is cold and raining, enter the softshell coat.
I came across the softshell coat that HipenHeppie made. I loved her version. She used a free pattern, the Zipfeljacke Bella from Rabaukennaht. I love the colour blocking of the coat and the hood, it looks so cute with the drawstings attached to it. 
The original pattern is with buttons instead of a zipper, but as HipenHeppie explains, it can be changed quite easily. Of course that was not the only change that I wanted to make I also wanted to add a collar. I wanted a coat with both a collar and a hood.
So when I traced the pattern I changed a couple of things:
I added 1,5 cm to the sides on the front where the zipper comes (for the zipper)
* I added 2 cm to the bottom of the pattern pieces as I did not wanted a reversible coat. I folded the bottom first 1 cm and then again 1 cm before I sewed the bottom.
* I did not add seam allowance to the outside of the hood as I sewed a bias band to the hood
* I added a collar piece by cutting a rectangular piece a bit shorter than the inside of the hood and 10 cm high, I measured this after I had sewed the hood on
* Additionally, do not forget to add seam allowance to the pattern pieces as seam allowance is not included
I followed the pattern until after the hood was added. Then I cut the pattern piece for the collar and sewed the collar with the right side on the inside of the hood. Then I sewed the zipper to the coat and the collar. After the zipper I sewed the bias band (keperband) to the zipper. After that was finished I folded the collar, wrong sides together, and folded the collar over the seam from the hood.
I also changed the way the sleeves were sewed. I wanted to show the inside of the nice soft softshell fabric therefore I decided to just fold the bottom of the sleeves twice and then sewed a few stitches so that it would stay put.
I bought the green softshell fabric already three years ago in Groningen at Jan Sikkes Stoffen en Gordijnen. Again it took me 3,5 years to use the fabric for a coat. The softshell fabric with the birds is from Hoofs, one of my local fabric stores. I thought it would perfectly fit with the green fabric. I can not sew a garment without colour blocking, so I always need at least two different fabrics. I have enough fabric of both left to sew another softshell coat (at least I hope so).
Fabric: Green softshell from Jan Sikkes in Groningen, the softshell fabric with the birds comes from Hoofs in Den Bosch.
Pattern: a free pattern the Zipfeljacke Bella from Rabaukennaht (in German, but with a great photo tutorial)

Thursday, 18 May 2017

Petit four - a new dress by Duchess and Hare

I know many of you love ruffles, I on the other hand, do not like ruffles to be honest. But then I tested the new dress by Duchess and Hare, the Petit Four Dress. I actually like this type of ruffle. It is not the flowy knit type of ruffle but a nicely lined modern type of ruffle, at least that is how I see it.

The Petit Four is a cotton dress, with two front options (ruffles or scallops) and two sleeves (sleeveless and short sleeves), sizes 2-10, and there is a free apron as an additional bonus (I did not make the apron). The dress has a modern, yet vintage feel to it. It has the cutest sleeves, but is quite different from the dresses that I normally sew for our girls. Yet I love the classic look of the dress. The sleeves and the V-shaped back give it a different look from other dresses.
I made the dress with the ruffles option with a color blocked back and with short sleeves. This time it took some time to find the fabric that was a nice combination for this dress. I found my fabric, but then saw that I did not have enough fabric, so I had to be creative this time. Instead of cutting the skirt piece on the fold I cut too pieces (and added seam allowance) and sewed the two pieces together, can you tell in the pictures?
The dress can give a different look with different types of fabric. I prefer a modern feel for either the dress or the fabric, so I picked out a fabric with geometric stripes. Most testers used a vintage type of fabric, which gives the dress a totally different feel. The fabric for the skirt is not a thin cotton type of fabric but is a cotton sateen, which does not mean much to me, but it is a heavier type of cotton, which makes the skirt stand out a bit. I really like the look of the skirt. It is for sale through Sunday!
Fabric: the fabric with the animals on it comes from Tis Lifestyle. I already made a sleeping bag of this fabric (see below) one of many that I have made.
The orange fabric with geometric strips is orange tatimi stripes by Michael Miller fabric that I bought at modes4u, almost 3,5 years ago.
Pattern: Petit Four Dress by Duchess and Hare
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